Skip to content

Material Culture · Chapter 16, 1950–1980

The Leisure Suit Phenomenon

How polyester became the most-mocked fabric in American fashion.

A man in a leisure suit in a Chicago parking lot, 1978.
A man in a leisure suit in a Chicago parking lot, 1978.Downtowngal, "Man in leisure suit in parking lot, Chicago" (November 7, 1978). Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0.

By the mid-1970s, the polyester double-knit leisure suit—pastel or earth-toned, wide-lapelled, worn open-collared—had become a fixture of middle-American menswear. By the end of the decade it had become a national punchline, and in the 1980s it largely vanished from department stores. Its rise and fall traces an arc in American consumer culture: at the moment synthetic fibers achieved total democratization, taste-makers turned against them as cheap, shiny, and uncomfortable, and many consumers returned to cotton and wool. The backlash helped clear the way for the natural-fiber revival and the designer-denim boom of the late 1970s and 1980s, even as synthetics quietly remained in blends, linings, and activewear.

Sources

  1. ScholarshipEmily Spivack. Stocking Series, Part 1: Wartime Rationing and Nylon Riots. Smithsonian Magazine, 2012.
  2. ScholarshipA Synthetic History. Science History Institute.

Cite this page (Chicago)